The Stonira Journal
Polki vs. Kundan: A Guide to Choosing Your Heritage Statement
When it comes to traditional Indian jewelry, two names reign supreme: Polki and Kundan. Both offer a royal, “Maharani” aesthetic that has graced weddings and festivals for centuries. But if you’ve ever wondered why one glows while the other sparkles—or why the price tags differ—this guide is for you.
At STONIRA, we believe that understanding the soul of your jewelry makes wearing it even more special. Here is everything you need to know about these two iconic styles.
1. What is Polki? (The Raw Diamond)
Polki is essentially raw, uncut diamonds. Originating from the Moghul era, this style celebrates the stone in its natural form. Because Polki diamonds are not faceted (cut with many flat surfaces) like modern diamonds, they don’t “sparkle” in a sharp way; instead, they have a soft, deep, and vintage glow.
- The Look: Earthy, antique, and incredibly unique. No two stones are exactly the same.
- The Value: Since these are natural diamonds, Polki is considered a high-value heirloom.
- Best For: The bride or collector looking for an authentic, “old-world” royal look.
2. What is Kundan? (The Masterful Setting)
Many people think “Kundan” refers to a stone, but it actually refers to the setting technique. It involves using 24k highly refined pure gold foil to mount stones—usually glass stones or synthetic crystals—into a frame.
- The Look: Extremely polished, vibrant, and brilliant. It often features colorful Meenakari (enamel) work on the reverse side.
- The Value: More accessible than Polki, making it perfect for high-fashion statement pieces that don’t compromise on luxury.
- Best For: Festive celebrations, sangeets, and bridesmaids who want maximum impact and shine.
At a Glance: How to Tell the Difference
| Feature | Polki | Kundan |
| Stone | Natural Uncut Diamonds | Glass Stones / Glass Polki |
| Luster | Soft, vintage glow | Bright, clear reflection |
| Backing | Often remains silver/gold-toned | Often decorated with Enamel (Meenakari) |
| Durability | High (Heirloom quality) | Good (Great for occasional wear) |
Which One Should You Choose?
Choose Polki if…
You are a lover of history and raw, natural beauty. You want a piece that feels like it was plucked from a royal museum and will only increase in sentimental value over time.
Choose Kundan if…
You love vibrant colors and high-wattage shine. Kundan is perfect for those who want to coordinate their jewelry with specific outfit colors (thanks to enamel work) and want a regal look for a festive event.
The Best of Both Worlds
At STONIRA, many of our signature designs—like our Polki & Kundan Jhumka with Green Enamel—combine these techniques. By using Polki-cut stones in a traditional Kundan-style setting, we create pieces that offer the heritage feel of the past with the durability and brilliance required by the modern woman.